Noir Kei Ninomiya

Kei Ninomiya began working for Comme des Garçons in 2008 as a pattern maker, unil just four years later, Rei Kawakubo herself suggested that Ninomiya’s designs should be created under his own name. With this, Noir Kei Ninomiya was born, and the designer began producing his own label under the Comme des Garçons umbrella in 2012. The brand produces womenswear, and showcased its first Paris Fashion Week collection in 2019, attracting even more attention to the avant garde designer and his exciting brand. 

At the beginning of the label, Noir Kei Ninomiya utilised a colour palette of black only, hence the ‘Noir’ in the brand’s title. This decision was to ensure a focus was always placed on construction over colour or pattern. Kei Ninomiya also avoided sewing any garments, instead joining fabrics together in unconventional ways such as linking laser-cut shapes or through small metal joints. These principles are signature to the label and have resulted in the creation of striking and innovative designs. Today, Noir Kei Ninomiya does offer white clothing as well as black, with the occasional pop of pink or red, and more simple shapes are often sewn together, though designs continue to uphold the cutting-edge style which Noir Kei Ninomiya is known for. 

Through experimental cuts and techniques, Noir Kei Ninomiya offers unconventional elegance. Intriguing assembly techniques are met with a dark and romantic aesthetic, crafting dramatic silhouettes with a feminine flair. Leather, tulle, chiffon and vinyl are crafted to produce origami-like shapes, exaggerated ruffles and flower details. Studs and eyelets add a punk-like element to Victiorian-inspired designs, while puffy organza skirts and sleeves are decadent and striking. 

Noir Kei Ninomiya collections can be found online through Dover Street Market, Matches Fashion and Farfetch